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Doha is dialling it up for the World Cup. Here’s what you need to know

On November 20, Qatar will become the first Middle Eastern country to host the FIFA competition since it began in 1930.

Kate Hennessy

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The soccer fans roar and jump to their feet, their mouths ajar like laughing clowns at a fair. Team scarves fly; grown men cry.

This footage spans the entrance to the 3-2-1 Qatar Olympic and Sports Museum, newly built to adjoin Khalifa International Stadium, which will host the second FIFA World Cup match (between England and Iran) on November 21. The first match is the day before between Qatar and Ecuador at Al Bayt Stadium.

The Sports Museum is clearly not funds-restrained. One of its nine expansive galleries looks to contain every Olympic torch (including Sydney’s) available to borrow or buy. Yet, the museum’s opening salvo is not flashy collectors’ items, nor footage of famous players in legendary shootouts – but this sea of red-in-the-face, dyed-in-the-wool fans, losing their minds as a great sporting moment unfolds.

The 3-2-1 Qatar Olympic and Sport Museum building adjoins the Khalifa International Stadium and features five rings that light up in the colours of the interlinked Olympic rings. Facebook

It suggests that Qatar’s Supreme Committee, with its total oversight of everything FIFA related, understands that it’s the authenticity of the fans’ experience that will make or break this event: a situation that bodes well for the 1.2 million visitors expected to attend the Cup, which will wrap up on December 18 at the 80,000-seat Lusail Stadium.

Qatar is the first Middle Eastern country to host the World Cup since the event began in 1930. It’s also the first to kick it off in November, instead of June, to avoid the region’s extreme summer heat.

Khalifa International Stadium was the first 2022 FIFA World Cup venue to be completed. Getty

Of the well-documented controversies that have followed Doha’s successful bid in 2010, one is that Qatar is not a ‘real’ soccer nation. Its team, according to iNews UK's chief football writer Daniel Storey, was hot-housed into competitive shape at Doha’s sports development academy, Aspire. Founded in 2004, Aspire is “the product of extreme wealth meeting impatient ambition”, writes Storey.

Khalifa stadium and Aspire Academy are in Doha Sports City. The word ‘city’ is used loosely here, to mean a developed zone with a declared purpose that’s been built using the migrant manpower Qatar has been importing for decades. (The country’s indigenous population is just 15 per cent of the total – and Qataris do not work physically in construction. )

As the countdown to the Cup’s kick-off commences, men in high-vis clothing dot the foreground of nearly every outlook around Doha, from dawn to dusk. The Supreme Committee, Qatar’s official FIFA agency, estimates $US6.5 billion ($9.35 billion) has been spent on tournament-specific infrastructure in Qatar, such as stadiums, metro lines, roads and hotels.

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The toil hasn’t stopped there: new malls, theme parks, and family-friendly attractions have opened – with more to come, including ‘Entertainment Island’, which promises to include floating hotels, beach clubs, and a 36-ride water park.

Lusail National Stadium is the biggest in Qatar and will host the final game of the World Cup. Getty

Qatar Tourism notes that “80 per cent of the earth’s population is within a six-hour flight” of the country – and its goal is to lure more than six million visitors a year by 2030, with several attractions.

Culturally, however Doha is not like Dubai, nor does it want to be, I hear often during my stay. “In order of the most to the least conservative Gulf countries, it goes: Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Qatar, Oman, the United Arab Emirates and Bahrain,” says my city guide, Maria Fernanda Iglesias, an expat of six years from Ecuador.

Yet, isn’t a dash of Dubai’s permissiveness needed for events like the World Cup? Already, FIFA has confirmed exceptions for beer to be served on site in stadium ‘fan zones’, with a broader menu of champagne, wine and premium spirits in stadium VIP suites.

For residents, the only place to buy off-licence alcohol is at the Qatar Distribution Company (QDC). There’s just one QDC outlet, a fair distance out of town, and you need a special permit.

One skyscraper after another: Doha’s skyline increasingly looks like Dubai’s. Getty

Drinking at bars in select hotels and restaurants has also long been possible. But during my three-day stay in Doha in May, I ordered wine once – and that was enough. For me, when the broader enjoyment-of-drinking culture is absent, the fun follows suit.

At any rate, if you – like so many other soccer fans – query how this World Cup year will play out, consider that the country’s will to succeed as host nation is strong. When Qatar’s reigning Al Thani dynasty settles on a goal, it is pursued until triumphant completion. And global sports events have long been part of Qatar’s manifest destiny.

Lusail’s Katara Towers, built this year, are 211 metres tall and represent Qatar’s national seal. 

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Seeing the skyline unspool as you drive along Al Majd highway, it’s easy to assume Doha is heading in Dubai’s direction. Both cities have allowed blatant architectural show-ponying, with buildings that beg for your love or hate. In Sydney, we’re still talking about Packer’s Crown Towers and Barangaroo years after they went up.

In the Gulf capitals, controversy over one tall flashy building has barely had time to marinate before the next skyscraper is up. “What do you think this one is based on?” asks Iglesias, of Lusail’s Katara Towers. “Half a football?” I hazard. “No,” she says. “It’s two curved Arabic swords coming together.”

Lusail, she says, is the city of the future. “Isn’t Msheireb [downtown Doha] the future city?” I query. “No,” she replies. “Msheireb is Smart City, Lusail is Future City.”

You could be forgiven for thinking you’re in Paris at Doha’s Place Vendôme. 

One notable difference is no scimitars (curved swords) were used as muses for Lusail’s new mega-mall, Place Vendôme. The mall’s maximalist grandeur is such a literal interpretation of French neoclassical architecture that the main entrance is called 1 Eiffel. When it’s complete, Place Vendôme will have dancing fountains, two five-star hotels and the Middle East’s biggest Louis Vuitton store.

A cleaner buffs and re-buffs the high-touch surfaces during my visit. Everything gleams.

The site’s Galeries Lafayette could double as a factory-fresh Paris in a film. Its main avenue features Qatar’s famous outdoor cooling technology but my time spread-eagled over the pavement vent oohing and aahing is short because no-one else is doing it. So I go inside to watch four young Qatari men sniff scented strips at the Armani Privé store instead. Close by is
Marsa Katara, a pier with a restaurant and eight private bungalows over the water. “They wanted the Maldives here, so they did it,” Iglesias shrugs.

Marsa Katara is “the Maldives” of Doha, according to city guide Maria Fernanda Iglesias. Facebook

The next day, high winds have summoned a sandstorm that shuts down parts of Iraq, Iran and Kuwait. The dust storms, as they’re called, are becoming more severe in the Middle East. Eyes gritty and throat dry, there’s no better place to find hope for our future on an increasingly hot and dry planet than at Msheireb Downtown. Many buildings in the showcase city are certified at gold and platinum standard by the international Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED).

A tram loops silently through the solar-powered city. The spaces between the buildings are mapped out for maximum shade and airflow, while the town square has a retractable roof. Msheireb’s ‘smart city’ credentials also include artificial intelligence, smart lighting, wayfinding apps, CCTV and digital signage.

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Walking amid the sand-coloured buildings are Qatari couples – the men in white thobes, the women in black abayas and hijabs. Nothing disrupts the neutral and monochromatic colour schemes. When an ancient-sounding call to prayer rings out from an exquisite modernist-designed mosque, I realise Msheireb is the most traditional yet utterly futuristic place I’ve ever been; it’s like slipping onto the set of Brave New World.

A square in the contemporary, high-tech hub of Msheireb Downtown. 

We eat baguettes that eclipse many I’ve had in France, and Portuguese tarts that are the most authentic you’ll get outside of Belém. I have a brief rush of, “I could live here!”

Another rare first is riding a metro in its infancy. Come November, the metro’s parquetry floors will be trampled by World Cup ticket-holders but, for now, I have a carriage to myself.

I sit in a backwards-facing Gold Class seat and watch the tunnel zoom away at 100 kilometres per hour. Given the rugged necessity and age of most modern subways, there’s something touching about how Doha is selling the service to its residents as a “revolution”.

Souq Waqif’s colourful alleyways are full of traders selling local produce and mementos. 

The traditional-style Souq is a welcome antidote to Doha’s relentless, modernity. Its labyrinthine alleyways are filled with jars and pots of spices, nuts, saffron, soaps, trinkets – and spots to drink karak (spiced Qatari tea). There’s all the welcome hustle but not the harassment common to markets elsewhere in the world.

Later that day, I repeat something to Iglesias that a man said as he brushed by me. “That was ‘Salam alaikum’,” she says. “It means peace be upon you.”

Where to stay in Doha

Shower beneath chandeliers | The 270-room Mondrian Doha is Middle Eastern opulence at its most OTT. The hotel’s eye-catching outline dominates the Doha horizon in West Bay. Day and night, expensive cars sweep in with Qataris heading to Morimoto restaurant (by the Japanese ‘iron chef’), or the Black Orchid club (think velvet booths and gold framed decor), and also to spend time in the hotel’s day spa, where you can shower beneath chandeliers. Don’t miss the rooftop pool with its ​​hand-painted dome or the hall of mirrors, which is like being trapped inside a crystal decanter. Rooms are quiet and all have a view. Mondrian Doha is priced from $288 a night.

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The female day spa at the Mondrian Doha, complete with chandeliers. 

A taste of the West in West Bay | Located close to Lusail City on a private island in West Bay Lagoon, The Ritz-Carlton Doha has 374 rooms, and offers old-school elegance. There’s an exclusive Club Level, plus outdoor pools, a French brasserie (Sel & Miel) and the lush green Lagoon Restaurant with an international take on local flavours. Situated in the Al Muntazah; priced from $304 a night.

Oh-so-exclusive urban sanctuary | Banyan Tree Doha’s eye-popping exterior (with interiors by Jacques Garcia) exemplifies earth, fire, water and air – and not in a subtle way. The hotel has 126 rooms and is close to the city’s metro. It also offers direct access to extensive shopping options, an indoor experiential Theme Park and an exclusive cinema multiplex. Located in Mushaireb, within the Doha Oasis project; from $612 a night.

Banyan Tree offers seriously elevated accommodation and plenty of convenience. 

Go local | The cosy Zubarah Hotel has just 45 keys and bills itself as offering a more “local” experience that’s also family-friendly, with warm Qatari hospitality. Mocktails only. It opened in 2014 as Qatar’s first international hotel brand, and is owned by the Classical Palace Group, founded by Abdullah Al Hamad. Situated in the Al Muntazah district, close to many dining options and other attractions; from $115 a night.

Where to eat

Order the platters, and enjoy the views | Bayt El Talleh offers destination dining at its best. Share the set Lebanese dinner menu (just don’t eat lunch that day!), and linger late, savouring the views over Katara’s south hills. No alcohol served.

Be sure to dine on an empty stomach at Bayt El Talleh: dinner is a Lebanese feast of considerable proportions. 

Traditional cuisine gets a modern touch | Many people tell me the place for traditional Qatari cuisine in Msheireb Downtown is Saasna, however I see no Qatari families here – they’re all queuing for dinner at Harrods a few doors up (the UK chain is owned by Qatar’s royal family). No alcohol served.

Kebab central | Turkey Central Restaurant is one of the oldest BBQ joints in town, and is famed for its kebabs, kofte-on-tomato bread, mezze plates with freshly baked bread, and avocado juice. Located in the Al-Nasar area, away from the modern business district, it’s a much-loved local eatery that’s not posh, but goes big on flavour. No alcohol served.

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Expat hang | Ritz Carlton’s B-Lounge is where expats head for long boozy lunches, and to let their hair down. Picture relaxing marina views, plenty of outdoor seating and a clubby interior. Order a shared sashimi and sushi platter and let lunch stretch into the evening.

What to see

Desert rose | The story of Qatar, its people and its politics is brought to life at the National Museum of Qatar (NMoQ) with re-created and archival video. In 2019, the museum moved into its new building, designed by French architect Jean Nouvel, who was inspired by desert rose selenite crystals.

The striking exterior of the National Museum of Qatar, inspired by the desert rose. 

Art in isolation | Richard Serra’s East-West/West-East installation spans one kilometre between limestone formations, making a comment on isolation and the passage of time. It’s an hour’s drive north of Doha, and reflects Qatar Museum’s desire to take art “off the pedestal”, and into the street – or in this case, the desert.

Islamic treasures | The Museum of Islamic Art (MIA) and the Sheikh Faisal Bin Qassim Al Thani Museum are well worth a visit. The latter’s eclectic collection is in a traditional fort and features Islamic art, jewellery, vintage cars, weapons, carpets, Qatari artefacts and the world’s smallest and largest Koran. The MIA was designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect I M Pei.

Sheikh Faisal Bin Qassim Al Thani Museum is a treasure trove of Islamic art, jewellery and carpets, among many other things.  

Hard-hitting truths | When it comes to museums, Bin Jelmood House is one of the most compelling on offer. It’s a “truth-telling museum” about global slavery that makes space for enslaved peoples to tell their own stories. A corridor featuring the story of modern slavery brings us to the here and now, discussing the Gulf’s issues with contractual enslavement. Bin Jelmood House falls under the auspices of Her Highness, Sheikha Moza bint Nasser, and is maintained in an elegant heritage building.

Doha World Cup at a glance

Key facts | The tournament begins on November 20, and there are 32 teams taking part. As host nation, Qatar’s team automatically qualify for their first World Cup appearance. They will play Ecuador in the opening match at Al Bayt Stadium. Australia’s World Cup campaign begins on November 22, when it plays France. The Socceroos have been drawn in Group D, where they will face France, Denmark, and Tunisia. The 2022 World Cup final is scheduled to be played on December 18 at the 80,000-seat Lusail Stadium.

Transport | Stadiums are connected to Doha Metro or serviced by shuttle buses. Doha has trams, buses, taxis, rideshare and electric scooters too.

Stadiums | Travel times will be short. The distance between the eight stadiums is between five and 50 kilometres, so fans can go to more than one match a day.

The writer travelled as a guest of Qatar Tourism and Qatar Airways.

Correction | This story was updated on August 26 to reflect changes to playing order since publication, after FIFA moved the opening ceremony and match to November 20.

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