My spa holiday in the world’s most romantic place … solo

There are risks of going back to somewhere that you have fallen in love with before; what if it has changed for the worse, or the magic has been lost? Yet I trusted in the fact that Huvafen Fushi attracts a high percentage of returning guests, and as soon as I stepped off the boat, less than an hour after I had landed at Malé airport, I began to relax. It helps that the journey is relatively easy. After a direct overnight flight from London, you are whisked by a private launch to this island in the North Malé Atoll, rather than having to transfer to another plane (as is the case with other, more remote Maldivian resorts). And because Huvafen Fushi is reassuringly small, with just 44 rooms, it never feels crowded. I stayed in an individual thatched wooden pavilion with a large airy bedroom and marble-clad bathroom as well as a private plunge pool and direct access to the pristine beach. There are equally appealing suites built on stilts over the lagoon, reached via a long jetty, and with breathtaking panoramic views out to the open sea.

The resort is in the North Malé Atoll

All the rooms have been recently refurbished, 20 years after the resort opened, but the overall style remains in keeping with the discreet yet distinctive signature of Huvafen Fushi, and eschews any trace of ostentatious vulgarity. The design gives a sense of subtle luxury, using woven rattan, timber panelling and linen furnishings in a calm, neutral palette, remaining true to a longstanding focus on sustainability. As a consequence, the natural beauty of the island shines like a precious jewel: the sea sparkling in shades of sapphire and cerulean; the sky shimmering rose-gold at dawn, then slowly transformed into azure-blue hues; and finally glowing ruby-red as the sun descends towards the amber horizon.

Despite the resort’s diminutive size, there is always much to see. Waking early, I would make myself a cup of tea and step out onto the terrace to watch the fluffy baby water-hens with their mothers, and then stroll barefoot across the cashmere-soft white sand towards the shoreline, where elegant white egrets and grey herons stand poised at the edge, occasionally dipping their long beaks into the waves to catch fish. The ocean is so clear that eagle rays and black-tipped sharks are easily visible from the beach, as are rainbow-coloured shoals of tropical fish in the shallows. It’s easy to venture out with a snorkel to explore the coral reef that surrounds Huvafen Fushi, or go further afield with the resident marine biologist, in search of manta rays and hawksbill turtles. The sight of these elusive creatures cannot be guaranteed, which makes any chance encounter all the more magical; having swum alongside a magnificent pair of giant rays on a previous visit, I felt lucky to discover a turtle on this occasion, and admired its surprising grace as it glided silently beneath the waves.

This was Justine’s third trip to Huvafen Fushi

In between swimming, snorkelling and bird-watching, I also practised yoga in an open-air, overwater pavilion reached by a jetty from the beach, and cooled by sea breezes. The Indian yoga teacher Sayeli Dolas was as kind as the rest of the staff, and gently encouraging, while clearly well able to guide individual pupils at whatever level is appropriate. Thanks to her expertise, and that of Inwar Lapez, the superb massage therapist in the spa, my painfully hunched shoulders and knotted neck muscles gradually unwound over the course of my week’s stay. And I cannot recommend the spa more highly: the skilled therapists are truly exceptional, and having arrived at Huvafen Fushi after a debilitating bout of ill health, I soon felt miraculously restored by several healing massage treatments that complemented my daily yoga sessions. (The spa can devise personalised programmes for individual guests, albeit at a price; this is not an all-inclusive resort, although certain activities — including morning yoga, kayaking and paddleboarding — are free of charge.)

• 32 of the best hotels in the Maldives
• 14 of the best all-inclusive hotels in the Maldives

The healthy food served at the resort is similarly restorative, from platters of tropical fruit and freshly squeezed green juices at breakfast, to plentiful salads at lunch and grilled fish for supper. Guests may also indulge in a delicious selection of homemade pizzas, seafood pastas, creamy risottos, spiced curries and other epicurean delights. Despite the small size of Huvafen Fushi, there’s no sense of repetition, given that there are half-a-dozen dining venues, including a raw-food bar and a Japanese restaurant that offers impeccable sushi, sashimi and other piquant delicacies. Wherever possible, the chefs use locally sourced ingredients. As a consequence, I feasted on sliced dragon fruit and mangosteen in the morning and later sampled green papaya salad with prawns, plus delectable lime and coconut sorbets.

All rooms have recently been refurbished

Although most of the other guests were couples or small groups of family and friends, at no point did it feel uncomfortable to be eating by myself. I had a variety of good books for company, and in the evening I could tilt my eyes upwards, stargazing at myriad glimmering constellations in the velvety-black sky.

Huvafen Fushi is a supremely comforting, cosseting haven. I slept well at night, lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves, and during the day floated in the gentle cradle of the aquamarine infinity pool, or read beneath the sheltering shade of palm trees.

As it happens, my husband does not enjoy this kind of holiday — he generally prefers the bracing Scottish Highlands to the sybaritic Indian Ocean — so I didn’t feel guilty about spending this time without him. But for anyone who is wondering about travelling to Huvafen Fushi alone, for whatever reason, I would highly recommend the experience. If you need a reassuring framework for the day, that could be provided by classes in scuba diving, kayaking and sailing expeditions. Or you can simply revel in the freedom of having no plans at all, doing exactly as you please, whenever you choose, surrounded by natural beauty and soothed by the caressing sea.

It’s a great place to relax alone

In an ideal world, and if money were no object, I’d return every winter, like the migrating birds that fly here from cold northern climes. But even if that escapist dream proves impossible, I’ll still remember the healing power of solitude, and the importance of taking the time to recharge and reflect on one’s own.
Justine Picardie was a guest of Huvafen Fushi, which has B&B doubles from £1,090 in a Lagoon Bungalow with a pool (huvafenfushi.com). She paid for her own flights. Fly to Malé

This article contains affiliate links, which can earn us revenue

Best spa resorts for solo travellers

By Sarah Turner

1. Tor Spa Retreat, Kent

This friendly retreat never has more than 18 people booked in and many come on their own. Near Canterbury, it calls itself a day spa but there are six bedrooms, most overlooking a lily pad-filled lake, while breakfasts are delivered in hampers each morning. The food, vegetarian and Keralan style, is delicious. The treatments are Ayurvedic and guests can choose between, say, a four-handed Udwarthanam massage and taking a dip in the highly heated swimming pool, taking a yoga or mindfulness class or just relaxing.
Details One night’s full board from £260pp, including consultation and one Ayurvedic treatment (three-night minimum stay) (torsparetreat.com)

2. Yasuragi, Sweden

The weak Swedish kronor makes nipping to this spa just outside Stockholm more affordable than it would have been a few years ago. To enjoy a blend of Japanese and Swedish spa cultures, you’re given a yukata robe to wear to waft between bathhouse, indoor swimming pool and hot outside pool, and there are meditation classes and sound baths. Dinner is included and if you sit at the communal teppanyaki table, since this is Sweden, everyone will switch to English so they can converse with you. The resort is big — 191 rooms, with about half of them decorated with Japanese furniture, including futons — which allows it to be good value considering the excellent facilities and hybrid Japandi sense of style.
Details Half-board doubles from £173pp (yasuragi.se). Fly to Stockholm

Euphoria Retreat, Greece

This spa may be located near Sparta but its programmes are far from spartan, representing a relaxation-based quest for serenity. Solo guests can also choose between individual stays and group retreats. Facilities include four floors of treatment areas, with infrared sauna, yoga studio and outdoor swimming pool. There are just 45 rooms but its position on a hill near Mystras means you can get out and explore the countryside if you want a greater sense of being alone.
Details Three nights’ B&B from £919pp, including transfers (healingholidays.com). Fly to Kalamata or Athens

Kamalaya, Thailand

Kamalaya, on the island of Koh Samui, offers programmes for everything from weight management to sleep therapy and detox. At the centre of its main restaurant, it also has a communal table where solo guests tend to gather in the evenings, dining on excellent fusion food and enjoying biodynamic wines. Programmes include lots of yoga alongside massages and sound baths. Regular retreats with visiting teachers are a great option for people travelling by themselves and the 76 rooms vary between expensive villas by the beach and the more budget-friendly garden varieties.
Details Five nights’ B&B from £2,250pp, including flights (abercrombiekent.co.uk)

The Body Holiday, St Lucia

LAUREN SEGAL

This spa in the Caribbean has been catering to single travellers — and couples — since 1988. Guests, who often return, come for a bedrock of yoga and meditation classes, but the ethos is on relaxation rather than prescription. The 154 rooms are luxurious and most have an ocean view. Alcohol is available and there are five restaurants, as well as a full range of watersports. Activities and treatments are all-inclusive and September has a special focus on those who want to travel alone, with no single supplements.
Details Seven nights’ all-inclusive from £3,695pp including flights and transfers (inspiringtravel.co.uk)

For all of these packages solo guests have their own room

Become a subscriber and, along with unlimited digital access to The Times and The Sunday Times, you can enjoy a collection of travel offers and competitions curated by our trusted travel partners, especially for Times+ members

Sign up for our Times Travel newsletter and follow us on Instagram and X